Panama House, Bondi

Panama House is just up the road from Bondi Beach but it feels like a completely different world. It’s quieter and less touristy; although I did see a small group of Frenchmen carrying two slabs of beer. Somewhat typical for Bondi cafes, it’s airy, wood-accented, and is filled with casual vibes. I mean really casual. You know that faux-calm demeanor you often see in the city? The one where the face says “I am so relaxed” but the eyes are screaming unintelligibly? None of that here.

Ginger beer ($4.50), coconut water ($4.50)

Menus are clipped onto cut-up cardboard alcohol boxes with small pegs. Flipping through, I start to feel a little sad. I realize that I’m too late for huevos rancheros and too early for creole chicken hot pot. There’s margaritas, mescal, and cider available but I only day-drink during semester so I opt for coconut water. You may be rolling your eyes at my choice of thirst-quencher but it could be worse. I could be drinking sparkling water.

Snapper ceviche ($18)

This is a dish of color. Thin, translucent slices of snapper top sit in a citrus and tequila dressing that is both bright in color and flavor. Shaved radishes are a great contrast to the creamed avocados by adding pepperiness (and a pop of pink!). The attack of green is rounded off by pickled cucumbers, celery leaves, and green chilis. If you’re not really into semi-raw fish but still want something light, try the beetroot carpaccio with goats cheese and halloumi. The color of beetroot is striking and pretty.

Panama burger ($15)

To me, the star of the plate is the fries; ridiculously crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. They’re accompanied by a smoky and creamy dipping sauce which was a point of contention at the table. I liked it but my lunching companion wasn’t so sure. It’s a juicy burger with swiss cheese and pickles on a soft brioche bun but honestly, I wouldn’t hesitate to swap it for another portion of fries.

From the looks of it, they mix Latin American and modern Australian cuisines to get an enjoyable result. It’s the kind of place that could put Baja fish tacos and blood sausage on the same menu without you questioning that decision. Panama House is somewhere to have a truly relaxed lunch and avoid the hiked-up pricing of nearby Bondi Beach.

Panama House
251 Bondi Rd
Bondi NSW 2026
Website