Papparich, Bankstown

Quick Malaysian classics have come a little closer to home for the west. There’s now a Papparich in Bankstown’s recently opened Little Saigon Plaza, and while it doesn’t evoke as much colonial charm as it’s siblings, it’s still serving homey, filling dishes. Here’s my theory about how Papparich seems to draw crowds: it’s a combination of an extensive menu filled with Malay favorites (some of which you wouldn’t find at Mamak or Hawker) and the novel but efficient ordering system.

A chit is handed to you to pencil in your order and when you’re done picking, press the buzzer on the box of utensils and a waiter will appear to collect your order. Dining here means you’ve accepted that a lot of your conversations will be punctuated by loud beeps. Personally, I’d rather the beeping than hearing someone yell “waiter!” across a crowded room.

I’ve been hooked on cham (a combination of coffee and milk tea) ever since my trip to Hong Kong. If you follow me on Instagram, you’d also know that I’ve recently developed an appreciation for coffee. The perfect drink for me? A huge glass of iced cham with coffee jelly ($4.90).

I’ve never met anyone whose eye wasn’t caught by the deep fried chicken skin ($7.50). These aren’t flat chicken chips so some pieces that have curled up are slightly chewy; they are skins after all. If you can look past the plate, there’s a lot of other ways to start your meal. How about a mixed plate of satay ($25.90)? Half are chicken, half are beef. Both served with a textured peanut sauce that I couldn’t get enough of. I’ve always found beef satay to be drier than chicken and that’s the case here.

There are three staple bases in Malay cuisine: rice, noodles, and bread (usually roti). You can’t really have a meal without at least one of the three. Dry curry egg noodles with steamed chicken ($13.90) is a personal favorite. The noodles don’t separate too well until you’ve done a fair bit of mixing with the dark soy sauce and strong dry curry. A dish of lightly seasoned steamed chicken (with skin) is more than enough protein for the plate. There’s also steamed Chinese broccoli, you know, just to make sure you eat your veggies.

Nasi lemak with curry chicken and sambal prawns ($16.50) is a standard plate with crispy anchovies, peanuts, and a boiled egg. I wasn’t interested in the sambal prawns and the curry chicken was mild and didn’t have so much coconut milk that you felt bloated afterwards. Nasi lemak with beef rending ($14.90) probably would’ve been a better choice. Roti telur is roti with an egg inside which is a double edged sword. Upside: eggs are delicious. Downside: it can’t get as crispy. There’s a roti telur with curry chicken ($13.90) which is served with the same curry, some yellow lentil daal and a spoonful of spicy sambal that made me tear up a little from the heat.

It’s a hustle and bustle dining experience which works in its favor – the vibe just seems to match the food. You could bring a group of friends to try a lot of dishes with, or you could go by yourself and not have to share anything. Your call.

Papparich Bankstown
Little Saigon Plaza, 462 Chapel Rd
Bankstown NSW 2200
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