June 13, 2015

Mamak, Haymarket

Mamak
Say “Malaysian in Chinatown” and you’ll hear one of two things: Hawker or Mamak. Both, however, are operated by the same people. It’s been at least five years since I’ve eaten here and the queue outside is just as long as always. I counted at least forty people in the queue before me but because there were quite a few large groups, it only took us twenty minutes to get a table. Score.

Kitchen at Mamak
By the time I was finished tottering around Circular Quay for Vivid, most dinner places were closing soon. Luckily, Mamak is open until 2am on weekends. Imagine my surprise when I clocked the queue. It’s not supposed to be that long at this time of night! You can peer into the kitchen while waiting and watch roti, which Mamak is famous for, being made. Get closer to the door, and you realize it’s plastered with reviews and recommendations from publications.


I used to always order a teh tarik because I liked frothy, sweetened tea but ever since my trip to Hong Kong, I’ve been hooked on cham. If I see that half tea, half coffee drink on a menu, there’s a 99.95% chance I’ll order it. There is no such thing as a Mamak review without mentioning roti. This buttery and flaky flatbread is used to mop up the two curry dips. If it wasn’t already spicy enough for you, add a little bit of sambal for that extra kick. I’d give beef satay a pass and stick to the chicken satay; it’s not as dry. As for the fried chicken (ayam goreng), I definitely wasn’t expecting pieces the size of a loosely clenched fist. The skin was crispy and lightly spiced and the flesh was tender. What more could you want?

I probably should have switched the nasi lemak for a roti tisu. Coconut rice with sambal, anchovies, and egg sounds alright but paper-thin roti shaped like a wizard’s hat and served with ice cream sounds a lot more fun. I’ll be back for that. In the winter, Mamak is basically a warm and spicy refuge from the cold. Well, once you get inside, it is. If you’re stumbling around the city on a weekend night, it is a perfect place to refuel or lay down a carb and protein-rich foundation for more drinking.

Mamak
15 Goulburn St
Haymarket NSW 2000
Website

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