With an average population density of 6,500 per square kilometre, there is no shortage of food in Hong Kong. Ask anyone what you should eat in the bustling city and one of the answers will inevitably be “street food.” By street food, I don’t mean those $10 dumplings you get at some hipster loft with a Portland vibe; I mean the 50c dumplings made by an uncle with a generations old recipe and sold out of a 1m wide bare storefront or a cart. Because of food safety regulations, it’s a little hard to find carts these days but there’s a never-ending supply of snacks.
I was making my way down Tung Choi Street, walking fast because I was hungry. Heading towards the apparently street food filled Dundas Street, I tried to stave off the hunger as best I could. I had no particular plans for dinner except “just buy some nice looking food and try it.”
The mission turned out to be a failure. I hadn't eaten for hours so I veered off to a random street-side shop which had a picture of eggettes (aka egg waffles) and pointed to it while saying “one please”. Somehow my poor Cantonese and hand-talking was understood and I was handed a brown paper bag with piping hot gai daan jai. The little sweet puffs are broken off for individual snacking and are a favorite in Hong Kong.
You know that distinct smell of fried food that you can smell from ten meters away and draws you to the source? This is it. Before I turned the corner, I knew I was going to have fries. Weaving through the mob of people standing around for their snacks, I get to the counter of Hot.com and through a combination of English words and Cantonese numbers, I order fries and squid balls with honey mustard sauce. What I get is a tall, palm-sized cup of fried food covered in a sweet and sharp sauce. There’s about 15 options (all involving fries) and 10 sauces. I could’ve had another cup; I love fries.
G/F, Hung Fai Building,
430 Dundas St,
Mong Kok
The name King of Coconut makes me imagine a king using an upturned coconut as a crown. With that funny image in my brain, I get some fresh coconut juice. Here I am, expecting the clear liquid that all those famous people drink, when I am handed a plastic cup of something that resembles iced milk. What it ends up tasting like is coconut milk watered down with coconut water.
G/F, Dundas Square,
43H Dundas St,
Mong Kok
I was wondering along Dundas Street looking for food when I came across a throng of people outside a cornershop. Curious to see what was going on, I managed to get through the crowd to see that this place was selling everything from chicken feet to pig’s intestines. I’m not eager to try pig’s intestines again so I opt for a stick of squid tentacles. They’re brushed with what tastes like a honey and hoisin glaze and heated over a charcoal grill. Pro-tip: always keep tissues with you because you never know when you’re going to get some sweet and smoky sauce all over your hands.
Cnr of Dundas St & Sai Yeung Choi St South,
Mong Kok
Hui Lau Shan is mango heaven. Almost everything is mango, not even kidding. Merivale chef Dan Hong seems to love the A1 mango juice with jelly so I have to see what’s up with this drink. They are generous with the amount of mango cubes and I’m always a fan of jelly drinks. During a sweltering summer, I can see why this would be a good drink. I’m pretty sure I looked novel switching between the DSLR shot and the iPhone shot for something so common. It’s like instagramming your Starbucks (which I have been guilty of doing).
58-60 Sai Yeung Choi St South,
Mong Kok
More locations here.
The next day I’m looking for an on-the-go breakfast before beginning my day when I remember Kam Wah Bakery and their allegedly “best polo buns in Hong Kong”. There’s a five minute wait so I take the time to read all the articles taped to the walls singing the praises of their buns. Suddenly a man comes out of the next building carrying a giant tray laden with buns. Fresh out of the oven, the heat melts a big slab of butter sandwiched in the middle. After the first bite, I immediately question why my buns don’t taste this good. I can’t say that I’ve eaten every polo bun in Hong Kong, but I’ve definitely eaten a yummy one.
G/F 47 Bute Street,
Prince Edward
A lot of the Central district in Hong Kong Island is made up of small winding streets cut out of the hilly terrain so more often than not, you’ll find yourself walking up or down a slope or steep stairs. To have enough energy to explore the area, you’ll need fuel. I only had 3 hours to visit Hong Kong Island (which is not nearly enough) so I didn’t get to eat much, sadly enough.
Opened in 1952, Lan Fong Yuen is said to be the origin of stocking milk tea. Tea is poured through a filter resembling a stocking, and evaporated milk is added for a smooth flavour. The people who run the place probably think it’s funny that there are tourists who stand in front of the old storefront and take photos. In five seconds, the uncle in the green shirt in my photo is going to look at me funny for taking lots of photos of a cup in midair. There’s not much that differentiates it from other milk teas, but there’s something novel in having a drink at its origin, no?
2 Gage St,
Central
Tai Cheong Bakery has a reputation for great egg tarts and have locations all over the city. They have been open since 1954 and are stocked full of many different Chinese pastries like wife buns and cookies but I’m here for the cookie-crust egg tarts. If you’re lucky, you’ll stop by when the daan ta have just come out of the oven. The custard is still creamy and sweet and personally, I prefer this crust to the flaky ones as it reminds me of crumbly shortbread.
35 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central
More locations here.
There is so much snacks to be had in Hong Kong that I think I’m going to start planning another trip just so I can eat more. You could stay in any hotel in the city and there would be yummy food close by. I can’t wait for another trip!
I was making my way down Tung Choi Street, walking fast because I was hungry. Heading towards the apparently street food filled Dundas Street, I tried to stave off the hunger as best I could. I had no particular plans for dinner except “just buy some nice looking food and try it.”
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Eggettes |
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French fries and squid balls with honey mustard sauce ($29HKD, ~$4.80AUD) |
G/F, Hung Fai Building,
430 Dundas St,
Mong Kok
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Small fresh coconut juice ($16HKD, ~$2.70AUD) |
G/F, Dundas Square,
43H Dundas St,
Mong Kok
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Squid tentacles ($17HKD, ~$2.80AUD) |
Cnr of Dundas St & Sai Yeung Choi St South,
Mong Kok
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A1 mango jelly ($30HKD, ~$5AUD) |
58-60 Sai Yeung Choi St South,
Mong Kok
More locations here.
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Polo bun ($9HKD, ~$1.50AUD) |
G/F 47 Bute Street,
Prince Edward
A lot of the Central district in Hong Kong Island is made up of small winding streets cut out of the hilly terrain so more often than not, you’ll find yourself walking up or down a slope or steep stairs. To have enough energy to explore the area, you’ll need fuel. I only had 3 hours to visit Hong Kong Island (which is not nearly enough) so I didn’t get to eat much, sadly enough.
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Milk tea ($16HKD, ~$2.70AUD) |
2 Gage St,
Central
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Egg tart ($6HKD, ~$1AUD) |
35 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central
More locations here.
There is so much snacks to be had in Hong Kong that I think I’m going to start planning another trip just so I can eat more. You could stay in any hotel in the city and there would be yummy food close by. I can’t wait for another trip!
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